When a seam is left raw it’s more likely to fray.  Finishing your seams not only helps keep them from fraying, but it also keeps it secure and tidy.  We’re going to go over 5 simple seam finishes.

Use 10 sample rectangles to practice the following seam finishes:

OVERSTITCH (ZIG ZAG)

The overstitch seam finish is most similar to the overlock/serged seam finish.

1. With right-sides-together, sew a 5/8″ seam.

2. Now do a basic zig zag stitch that goes over the edge a little bit.

CLEAN FINISH

The clean finish is basically a hem on the raw edge of the seam allowance.

1. With right-sides-together, sew seam with a 5/8″ seam allowance.  Press the seam open.

2. Press the raw edges of the seam under 1/4″ on both sides.

3. Then simply edge stitch for the clean finish.

BOUND EDGE

The bound edge is clean, and gives the option of adding a little color to your seam finish with bias tape.

1. With right-sides-together, sew a seam with a 5/8″ seam allowance.  Sandwich the seam inside bias tape.

2. Top-stitch the bias tape to the seam edge.

FRENCH SEAM

The French seam takes the most time and knowledge, but the outcome is very rewarding.  The raw edge is completely encased in this seam allowance.

1. With wrong-sides-together this time, sew a seam with a  1/4″ seam allowance.  I know it seems backwards- it’s supposed to.  I also realize that the right and wrong sides of my sample fabric look exactly the same… whoops.

2. Trim your seam allowance down to about 1/8″.

3. Fold the fabric over with right-sides-together and press.

4. Sew a seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  When you open it, it will look like a basic stitch on the right side, and completely closed edge on the wrong side.

PINKED EDGE

A pinked edge is a seam allowance made with no sewing.  The 45 degree angles on the pinking shears cut the fabric on the bias in a zig zag and prevent fraying.

1. With right-sides-together, sew a seam with a 5/8″ seam allowance.

2. Use a pair of pinking shears to cut the raw edge of your seam.

HOMEWORK